The Multiple Benefits Of Vitamin C
When it comes to skincare: there’s ingredients that are beneficial but aren’t necessarily, well, necessary. Then, there’s Vitamin C. A workhorse in the world of beauty, it’s one ingredient that every skin type can benefit from. “Vitamin C is one of the most studied age-prevention molecules that has dozens of clinical studies over the years to back up its claims,” explains skincare formulator Mary Allan. “It’s one of the best ways to incorporate brightening and firming benefits into your daily skin care regimen, along with collagen boosting and sun spot fading.
But since there are many forms of Vitamin C available, Allan breaks down the most popular ones – along with their ideal concentrations and particular benefits.
L-ASCORBIC ACID
This is a pure source of Vitamin C, with a ton of research since it has been around the longest. It is water-soluble and works on the epidermis layer to brighten the skin and fade dark spots. It also contains beneficial antioxidant protection.
Key benefits: If you are looking for immediate results and brightening, then L-Ascorbic Acid is a fantastic form of Vitamin C to add to your daily regimen. One of the drawbacks, though, is that it’s highly unstable. Exposure to air, light, and heat will cause the molecule to oxidize. The powder form is ideal for L-ascorbic acid. You can mix into a serum or with water to prevent oxidization.
Look For Concentrations Of: 10% is the ideal concentration for drier and more sensitive skin types 20% is ideal for skin types that are on the oilier side and are not overly sensitive
TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE (THD ASCORBATE)
This is considered a breakthrough, next-generation form that’s highly stable and doesn’t oxidize with light and air. Studies show that it is capable of penetrating both the epidermis and the dermis layer of the skin because it is lipid-based and able to interact with our lipid skin profile. It also has been shown to contain beneficial antioxidant protection.
Key benefits: It has been shown to stimulate collagen production, and is also shown to be better tolerated by drier and sensitive skin because it is in a higher pH range.
Look For Concentrations Of: 10% is the ideal concentration for drier and more sensitive skin types , 15% is ideal for skin types that not overly sensitive.
*Since THD Ascorbate can penetrate the dermis layer it is considered more potent than other forms of Vitamin C. Therefore, a lower percentage is required.
SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE (SAP)
SAP is water-soluble, not pH dependent, and is considered non-irritating.
Key benefits: If you have sensitive or dry skin, SAP is ideal as it has been shown to be well-tolerated by most skin types. It’s also been shown to be effective on acne skin types.
Look For Concentrations Of: 15% is the ideal concentration for drier and more sensitive skin types 20% is ideal for skin types that are on the oilier side and are not overly sensitive
ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID (EAA)
EAA is a highly stable Vitamin C derivative that boosts your skin's natural moisture levels. In addition, it has been shown to have excellent brightening properties and contains beneficial antioxidant protection.
Benefits: If you have sensitive or dry skin, EAA is ideal as it has been shown to be well-tolerated by most skin types.
Look For Concentrations Of: 15% is the ideal concentration for most skin types